Taking the Plunge
Why are we selling up leaving our great circle of friends and families and beautiful Tasmania for the uncertainties and potential danger of a cruising life?
This has been a dream shared by many people and one that I have actively spoken about for many years...I had plans in 1992 of sailing with a friend to New Zealand and then via the Pacific Islands to the north and thence back to Australia. This did not happen and I became immersed in tourism businesses in Hobart. After finding my perfect partner in Ann Maree O'Brien (AMOB) getting married in 1999 and having two beautiful boys Alec (March 1999) and Lucas (Dec 2001)... the time arrived again when we could follow our dream; "take the plunge" and take a year out of our lives to cruise the East Coast of Australia.
Some of our family and friends have been very supportive and understanding; particularly our sailing friends, as to the reasons why Ann-Maree and I have decided to take some time off working for a living and join thousands of others in the cruising lifestyle. It will cost us financially and a couple of “friends and family members” have not understood at all and have placed their own fears and misunderstanding in the way of their own good judgment. It’s as if they think we are not capable of making a rational decision by ourselves, and that opting out of a house with a mortgage and a 9-5 or 8-8 work day is not a serious option for people at our age. “Remember you will need to have a lot of money set aside for your young children’s education…not to mention your superannuation… and getting a job in your fifties is not easy you know!”
One very vocal friend said she could think of nothing worse than being cooped up on a 47 foot yacht with two small children! Little did she know, (because she has never been cruising herself) that being cooped up is exactly the opposite of what really happens. We look forward to wide open horizons with plenty of onshore activities on beaches, and quiet anchorages, exploring and enjoying the gifts that nature surrounds us with.
This is exactly the reason we would like our children to have this experience early in their lives. We also think that this time of their lives is very precious and is too soon gone. I have a 16 year old daughter (see pic. with Lucas) and it seems like just such a short time ago that she was a cute cuddly toddler herself!
Purchase and Delivery
(Jan to April 2002)…
On the 22nd of February 2002, after years of looking around, talking to cruising sailors, boat builders, naval architects and generally dreaming, we found our livaboard cruising yacht Honey Hush 11, sitting quietly at a marina in Newport, north of Brisbane. This Stuart 47 conceived and built by Jim Stuart and designed by naval architect, the late R. Sullivan was Hull No.3 built in Brisbane and launched in 1992. She was fitted out and lived aboard by well known Queensland cruising couple, Kevin and Carole Hall for the next ten years.
In the years 1993 - 1995 Kevin and Carole circumnavigated in HH 11 the Trade-wind route via Darwin, Bali, Christmas Island, Cocos Keeling Islands, The Red Sea, through Suez to the Mediterranean, The Canary islands, across the Atlantic to Barbados, Bequia, Mystique and the Grenadines to Grenada, through Panama to Marquesas, Vanuatu, Petrie Reef, Cato Island and back to Australia via Bundaberg and Brisbane. HH 11 had only a rough fit out for this voyage and it was not until after their return 1996 that the Hall’s began the proper fit out in New Guinea Rosewood and Indian Jackfruit.
Kevin and Carole continued to live aboard and cruise the North Queensland Coast, taking a regular migration to Thursday Island and even sailing as far as the Kimberly Coast. For more information on their exploits I would suggest you read the recently published book, “People and Their Boats” by Leslie Black.
My first dilemma after purchasing the yacht was to find a suitable new name. Unfortunately there are at least two Honey Hush’s in Southern Tasmanian waters and one is a Grand Banks 44, previously owned by club stalwart, the late Alf Gough. This Honey Hush had been a high profile starting vessel for the Royal Yacht Club of Tasmania and is regularly used by of Alf’s family and friends. I felt it wrong to impinge on his memory and club tradition by bringing another Honey Hush into the Club.
Knowing we would be cruising with two small children, the name Ocean Child seemed appropriate and checking that this name was not on the Register of Australian Ships, I asked my partner, Ann-Maree O’Brien’s (AMOB) cousin Haydi Eckberg to rename Honey Hush 11 - Ocean Child. This was duly performed at a lovely renaming ceremony in Brisbane when we picked up the yacht in March 2002
Old Salts say that renaming a yacht can bring bad luck, and I guess we run this risk, but properly done a new name can enclose the memories that people have of their special time onboard and let these go with them.
On the other hand I am also a great believer that boats have their own personalities and the Halls very kindly left much the memorabilia from their circumnavigation and 10 years living onboard, with the yacht to be enjoyed by future owners. They also very thoroughly left us inventory and manuals of equipment onboard and I have been more than grateful for their kindness in doing this.
Taking delivery of the yacht is always a tricky moment and I was very fortunate to have Hedley Calvert and Ross Muir, (two very well known Tasmanian ex-pat sailors living in Mooloolaba and Manly), take care of OC until I could get to Brisbane for the delivery voyage.
We were able to commence the refitting process under Ross Muir’s watchful eye and before leaving Brisbane waters replaced the cap shrouds and forestay, main and genoa halyards, mainsheet and fit a one line reefing system to the mainsail. The engines were checked and filters changed and the new name was placed on each side of the bow and stern.
After the renaming ceremony on Good Friday the 29thof March 2002, we took our first voyage on Moreton Bay with a 15 knot sea breeze. This was our first feel of the powerful Stuart other than a very brisk test sail with the Kevin Hall on board in January. Again I was impressed by the ease of navigation and effortless sailing this yacht provides. We virtually skipped over the water, with very little fuss and on checking the log we were suitably impressed by her speed. The sensation was a stiff boat that covers the ground quickly, with quiet efficiency.
Two days later after a mammoth shopping expedition, my good friend Rob Gregory from Brisbane, his two children Nick and Alex, with my brother Stephen and John Wedd from Hobart set off across Moreton Bay bound for Southport. It didn’t take us long to get into trouble. A Sou’ easterly wind was blowing in excess of 30 knots right against us. We were forced to motor all the way, and even though we had sought good information and had up to date charts we went aground twice, once becoming quite firmly stuck and taking a little time to remove ourselves. Fortunately the tide was still making in that part of the Bay.
On our arrival at Southport we discovered the engine exhaust spurting green water into the bilge! This could only mean that coolant was somehow leaking out through the manifold and into the exhaust system. Luckily I was down in the engine room at the time and quickly undid the hose clamp that secured the salt water line into the exhaust. Green coolant gushed out, it was only a matter of minutes before it would have backed up far enough to enter the pistons via the exhaust valve outlets, with the potential result of hydrolysing the engine next time we started it. A much more expensive repair job indeed!
A few days later, with the help of the Tasmanian mafia in Queensland, Roger Hart and a local ex-pat living in Southport, we had a new manifold fitted and were ready to commence our sea-voyage south. The wind had abated somewhat from its 30+ knots, but still stood in from the same direction which meant more upwind work to Sydney.
Ocean Child leaves Southport
We left Southport making it through the Bar into a choppy sea early on Thursday the 4th April. For the next 20 hours we bashed our way south, motor sailing with reefed main in 20knots of SSE breeze, past Tweed heads, Byron Bay and in the early hours of the following day with a front passing through and 28knots over the deck, we made a dash into Coffs Harbour. This was a first time into Coffs for all of us onboard. However navigation was made easier with a C Map chart plotter, radar, binoculars and 6 pairs of straining eyes. We made it in through the entrance and gratefully picked up one of the courtesy buoys next to the marina entrance, falling into our bunks for a well earned rest.
Ocean Child at Coffs Harbour Marina
The next morning we motored into the marina and took our previously booked berth. The wind was still gusting above 25knots and our berth was side on to it. Some “Sydney slicker hired guns” on their Sydney 38 in the next berth got quite a shock as we came in a little out of line. Some unwelcoming expletives from them later found us comfortably in our own berth and not theirs! We gave them a squeeze but there was no collision or damage, and afterwards when they had calmed down I politely asked them if they were from Sydney? When they answered in the affirmative, I simply said I thought so!
Another unfortunate thing happened in Coffs! We ate lunch at the local Yacht Club and my brother Steve suffered a severe case of food poisoning. With scores of trawlers and other professional fishing boats in the harbour we were all keen to try the local fish of the day. After tasting the John Dory I realized with horror that it was frozen. I asked the waitress if it was fresh and she answered, “Yes fresh frozen”...I suppose all their fresh catch feeds the voracious appetite of the Sydney Fish Market.
Coffs Harbour to Sydney harbour
After a day we bade Coffs farewell and sailed for Sydney early the next morning, still in a fairly stiff SSE breeze of 22 knots. We made Sydney at 9pm on Sunday evening with the last 60 miles under sail only close reaching into the heads, as the breeze backed into the East. It was a unforgettable sight of twinkling lights beneath the setting sun gradually gaining in strength to become a multicolour dissonant light show, as we sailed through the heads and opened up the famous harbour. We tucked in for the night just around North Head, anchoring in Quarantine Bay.
Our warm and glistening morning was spent swimming in the Bay and going ashore to explore the former quarantine station. It was not until afterwards that we were told of the great white shark which had been spotted in the Harbour during the previous week!
Sydney to Hobart
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After a leisurely morning, and still basking in the glow of our arrival the night before we made a short crossing of the harbour taking in Millionaires row off Darling Point to the Cruising Yacht Club of Australia marina. Here we were welcomed and stayed one night before making use of the building NE sea breeze to leave at 4pm on Tuesday evening. We skedaddled down the coast making a fantastic days run of 185 nautical miles in 24 hours. Unfortunately my brother Steve, who had really been ill all the way from Coffs Harbour, could not join us for this magnificent sailing leg. We entered Bass Strait the following night in calm conditions with a high ranging right in over us, perfect conditions for a crossing. The next 36 hours were spent with the motor running and by early in morning of the 12th April, we were abeam of Eddystone light. Another smooth crossing, I am building my averages and think it must be the pilot house good luck syndrome. All my crossings in open yachts have been rather wet and cold to say the least!
This day dawned fine and mild once again with a following breeze. We sailed past Wineglass Bay passing between Shouten Island and the Freycinet Peninsula, leaving the Ile de Phoque to Starboard, before anchoring in Chinaman Bay on Maria Island. After a full nights rest in a beautiful anchorage, with freshly caught flathead for dinner, we motor sailed faultlessly through the Narrows at Marion Bay then through the Dunalley Canal, toward Hobart, arriving just after 2pm. Our sailing and motoring time from Sydney took only 3 days and 10 hours.
On our arrival at the Royal Yacht Club of Tasmania on the 13th April the real work commenced on refitting Ocean Child for our year of family cruising to commence in December. I had priorities and Ann Maree had priorities…we had to start somewhere and a list was as good a start as we could make…but that is another story.
Moving Aboard
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We have done it…yeah, but was it worth all the trauma of downsizing from a boutique Bed and Breakfast business, a job that I loved, managing the Maritime Museum of Tasmania to move from our cosy home to a yacht…only time will tell. My partner in crime, Ann Maree (AMOB) has also experienced the trauma of this move and no doubt our children Claire (16), Alec (3 ½) and Lucas (10months) have felt it too.
I guess the best way I can describe our past year culminating in the crescendo of feverish activity during the last 8 weeks is that of being pregnant, and giving birth. The fun part was in the early stages, playing with the idea, then came the stark reality of making all the life changes necessary and then the build up with the expected final experience, never enjoyed and very painful, before the joy of seeing for the first time a new raw life, with its many new responsibilities and unknown factors.
As a friend noted, “This is like carrying a cargo first class nitro glycerine around”, the ingredients were there to make a big bang and we certainly had our explosion in the days before moving aboard!
Buying a boat and sailing away into the sunset would seem an easy task. We thought of building a new fast cruising yacht to our own specifications, but having gone down that path before I have no illusions about the time, cost and difficulty and juggling all the competing responsibilities of jobs, friends and kids in our lives ruled out this option.
So we bought a second hand yacht that had been cruised extensively and just needed a little refitting. When dealing with boats that there is no such a word as “a little”. What usually happens and certainly happened in our case, is that “a little” refitting, turned into a big and costly exercise. We have however been rewarded with the end result and our Stuart 47 yacht Ocean Child certainly shines brighter for the effort. The yacht feels more like our own now, as many of the renovations have changed her appearance, whilst other work such as the rewiring and sewerage treatment system are behind the scenes and will not be outwardly noticed. A full list of the jobs completed is in the Vessel section of our website. As mentioned at the end of the delivery trip “The Story so far” AMOB had her list
and priorities and I had mine, somehow we had to manage the changes together and this took a lot of discussion and decision making. AMOB took charge of the house downsizing and her mum, Elizabeth travelled over Bass Strait from Melbourne to assist in organisation the garage sales and packing. Elizabeth could have been with us for longer as her help was invaluable, in dealing with Alec and Lucas and preparing the “For Sale” items. But we managed on and during September and October AMOB packed, and cleaned the house.
Check out chick.
Every item needed a decision and every item has a window to you memory, so this packing was very time consuming and stressful, particularly with two small and one not so small children at your constant beck and call.
I managed to fortunately become redundant from my job at the end of August, and threw myself into the job of refitting before the expected move onboard late in October. There is never enough time to do everything and moving onboard with a month of small shakedown cruises in November seemed the best solution for our family and Ocean Child. The timing of this plan would be tight and would not entirely suit Claire who is finishing year 10. She was positive about it all however and looked forward to moving into a flatette with a friend, under her friend’s parent’s house. Claire managed brilliantly cleaning her room and assisting AMOB in cleaning and packing our house.
I have been completing my Master V qualification with the Australian Maritime College in Launceston and Seafood Training in Hobart during the year and it didn’t assist matters that the final module for this course coincided with our last week of moving. AMOB was not impressed and after a week of dealing with the move alone exploded with plates of food and various items being hurled around the kitchen. I gathered up the two small children and went for a long drive.
The first leg of our voyage -Hobart to Bicheno
The Angels of Surrender, Joy and Freedom have entered our lives! Prior to departure our friend Jo Howarth gave us "Angel Cards" as a farewell gift and remarkably we all selected the perfect angel for each of us. Alec drew Surrender which we thought very appropriate and AMOB happily drew a Freedom Angel...and said "I will never let this one go...ever!"
So finally after the last very hectic week to top all previous very hectic weeks, with our two new wheelhouse doors fitted by the ‘world’s greatest shipwright’-Hugh Wardrop, and with final adjustments over, we are on the eve of departure. We had asked our friends to see us off and were surprised to see about 60 people turning up to the Yacht Club to hug, weep and cheer us off. The very last job was to lift my Vespa scooter aboard, and this was achieved with astonishing ease using the spinnaker halyard and a specially made lifting bag.
At 7pm on the 21st of November 2002 streamers were thrown and last farewells expressed. Ocean Child slipped out of the pond at the Royal Yacht Club of Tasmania into the River Derwent, for destinations unknown. Two small children onboard without the least knowledge of what adventures they would find, plus two rather apprehensive adults, with the warmth of achieving their first major goal, but concerned as to whether they had made all the “right” decisions!
As we motored along at reduced revs with multicoloured streamers flying from our rigging we sailed close by the finishing line of the Thursday evening sailing event. Yachts came out of their way to give a final cheery farewell, and we headed downriver to our night anchorage at Richardson’s Beach in Ralph’s Bay. Our two boys had their dinner and we cleaned up then anchored in the evening light, to settle down for our first night. AMOB was very tired, but somehow I had extra fuel in my tank being elated at finally making ‘it’ and our very ‘friendly’ departure.
Alec looking aft leaving Hobart
However, it didn’t take long for the weather to change slightly and for us to realise why Richardson’s was not a favoured overnight anchorage. So up with the anchor and we motored off toward the D’Entrecasteaux Channel, (known locally as "The Channel". Finally AMOB expired and went to bed leaving Ocean Child and me to a quiet night motoring to beautiful Conningham Beach in North West Bay.
Morning broke clear and still, the boys couldn’t wait to get into the dinghy to go ashore, so a quick breakfast was ordered, the dinghy unstowed from its deck cradle and launched for our first outing. We rowed ashore and played on the beach, soaking up the early sun and splashing in the cool clear water. Pooki (Lucas) loves sand and particularly loves to eat it…on this occasion he continually crawled toward the water’s edge, successfully being further immersed each time. Alec stripped down to his undershirt and surfed his boogie board in the 50mm swell!
Lucas, AMOB and Alec at Conningham Beach
We noticed a few wisps of NW breeze ruffling the surface of the water so regretfully made our way back to Ocean Child to set sail for Port Arthur. We sailed out of the Channel and headed across Storm Bay, (no it’s not named after Mr Storm) towards Cape Raoul, about 20 miles away. The NW breeze gradually built and backed into the WSW pressed us along at 7-8 knots. With a weather eye over my right shoulder I noticed dark clouds with rain squalls forming so put a reef in the main and rolled a considerable amount out of the Genoa.
The two boys were asleep down below when the front crossed us. Sailing at 9knots we suddenly had 34 knots of wind over the deck and it was time to do something! The auto pilot couldn’t keep us on track as the seas built, and AMOB was unsure whether she could hand steer in the conditions. With Cape Raoul looming close in the mist and rain I took a gamble and steered down with the wind straight for the rocks, turned on the autopilot, checked that we maintained course, cleared the main halyard and fired the halyard clutch. The main was pressing against the spreaders in the rain and wind and refused to budge. Whilst AMOB assisted from the wheelhouse I crept forward to the mast and pulled down hard on the luff…thank goodness for the newly installed roller bearing batten cars, they made the job much easier. Ocean Child settled down under 2/3 rolled genoa and Cape Raoul, was passed safely close by on our portside…we felt we had passed our first test!
Cape Raoul from the East
AMOB and I were glad to be behind the Raoul and heading into calmer waters. Before us was the magnificent entrance to Port Arthur with West Arthur Head looming high on one side and the 300m sea cliffs Cape Pillar and Tasman Island on the other. Undoubtably one of the most exciting coastal scenery views in Australia.
We spent the next few days in the Carnarvon Bay area, visiting friends and generally enjoying our new home and surroundings. We spent an afternoon and night at Stinking Bay which we found to be not so stinky afterall! The boys revelled in the deserted white beach whilst AMOB and I discovered a family of pied oystercatchers who kept up a furious beep beeping in a not so friendly welcome. To our delight we also discovered a small flock of chestnut teal in the lagoon behind the beach, which were very nervous and could not be approached easily.
AMOB and Lucas at Stinky Bay
The following days at Port Arthur were spent occupying ourselves with post last minute arrangements that should have been sorted before we left Hobart. These entailed me spending a day back in Hobart, completing my oral examination for Master V with Marine and Safety Tasmania as well as sitting for my Radio Operators Certificate. AMOB was left onboard with the boys…not the best solution. It was a trying day for her without any relief or assistance.
With the weather gods still smiling we finally left Port Arthur at 5pm on Monday the 25th November, heading out into a leftover slop, from the boisterous South Westerly that had been blowing all day. The first hour was less than enjoyable, with sea cliffs on our port side (left) creating a washing machine action with the backwash from the swell. AMOB held the two boys in her arms in the wheelhouse comforting Alec, who was feeling a bit odd. Lucas, lulled by the wave action fell asleep on her lap. Finally we sailed between the spectacular dolerite cliffs of Tasman Island and Cape Pillar to head north. A night motor with very little wind took us as far as Chinaman’s Bay on the SE side of Maria Island.
Beautiful Port Arthur
We let the anchor go at 1am and retired for a short rest…absolutely vital with expectations of Alec and Lucas clambering for attention at 5.30 or 6am!
Leaving early we motored a short distance to Darlington, the site of a convict settlement in 1831. It later changed its name to San Diego with vineyard and mulberry tree (silk worm) plantations. This very first Tasmanian vineyard was created by Diego Benacchi in the late 1800s but unfortunately failed. He so loved the island that he returned to create a cement works of the early 1900s. Maria Island is always an enchanting place and takes my breath away with its magnificent scenery, heritage, birdlife and geology. This day was no exception and we chatted to local eco tourists on shore and took a short stroll around the settlement. We reluctantly left as we had scheduled a long days sail to Shouten Island and the Freycinet Peninsula.
Motoring out from the jetty in a light nor-easterly we were able to set a full main and genoa and two sail reached in absolutely smooth azure waters under a clear blue sky. We sailed past Shouten Island and anchored for the night at Bryans Corner, just to the north on the southern shores of the peninsula. I wasted no time in the embers of the day to launch the RIB taking Alec and Lucas ashore for a swim in the crystal clear water and white sand this area is well known for. Lucas enjoyed his bath/swim between my legs at the waters edge while Alec scampered back and forth becoming more daring, getting himself wetter each time.
Anchored at Shouten Island
We stayed in Bryans corner with another yacht from Sydney, to be rolled and jostled all night. Another yacht with an Alby Mangles look alike, took a look at our anchorage earlier in the evening and moved to Passage Beach further along. A good choice as he was more sheltered from the NE wind that blew all night. Proving yet again that I have a lot to learn! In the early hours of the morning we moved to Crocketts Bay on Shouten Island.
Going ashore for a quick stroll is always a delight on Shouten Island but we had to hurry our stay to get onboard again to motor nearly all the way to Bicheno. We arrived at the Gulch late in the afternoon and instead of tying up at the wharf we anchored in Waubs Bay…another poor decision by the skipper, leaving AMOB and I without enough sleep, tetchy and tired with two small boys rocking and rolling with two anchors out…not the best night and not the best way to say goodbye…I think AMOB couldn’t get into our car any faster, making a trip to Devonport and catching the evening ferry across to Melbourne. There she would enjoy the sanctuary of her mothers cottage in Maldon, whilst I battled the notorious Bass Strait, with friends Richard Donaldson and John Wedd!
Total distance covered for the voyage from Hobart to Bicheno was 158 nautical miles, taking 7 days. Total engine hours were 40, fuel consumption estimated at 160 litres. Refuelling at Bicheno with 245 litres taken onboard.
Ocean Child anchored at Waubs Bay, Bicheno
Leg 2 - Bicheno to Melbourne
At Bicheno, Richard Donaldson and John Wedd came aboard to join me for a cruise to Melbourne, via the Furneaux, Kent and Hogan group of islands. Richard’s wife Irene also arrived with a car full of delicious goodies she had cooked for our voyage. We re-fuelled, watered and left in the late afternoon of the 29th November 2002, a sultry day with thunder, rain and lighting predicted.
By nightfall, in a building SSE breeze we were off St Helens Point with Eddystone Light 17 miles ahead. At midnight we turned into the notorious Banks Strait at Salamander Rock, with sheet lighting flashing around us; we gybed and put one reef in the main. Shortly afterwards we sighted Swan Island Light, fine on our port bow, but we were travelling too quickly at 8-10 knots with wind and tide behind us . Our arrival at Boxen Island, which marks the south western entrance to Lady Barron Harbour on Flinders Island was timed for the early hours of the morning and we needed to slow down. The wind increased forcing a second reef, a good experience for the new crew amid rain and thunder in the wee small hours. No need for a genoa but we did have the motor ticking over at low revs keeping the batteries charged and as a precaution in the shoaly waters.
First light displayed a misty and overcast day with Boxen Island, (off the north-west corner of Cape Barron Island) 1.5 miles ahead. Richard was on watch and made the turn to starboard heading up the southern channel towards Lady Barron. Navigation was made easier by our C Map chart plotter and radar image, however paper charts provided to John Wedd by the that great mariner Dr Joseph Dominic Cannon were an important aid in determining our course.
After arriving and anchoring we spent a listless day eating, reading and sleeping. During the day we re-anchored in the lea of Little Green Island, just out from Lady Barron harbour. Awaking next morning to an abating SE breeze we breakfasted then berthed alongside the Lady Barron jetty amongst the fishing boats, taking a short walk into town to stretch our legs.
Dawn with Boxen Island dead ahead
Lady Barron Jetty and Harbour
In the town, if you could call this small fishing village that, we met Pam and Peter, having a well earned holiday from Melbourne. They came aboard and had coffee and chit chat before we departed...for the first time. Motoring out into the Bay a smoky haze filled the aft cabin! Richard and John quickly and efficiently dropped anchor as I hastily shut the engine down. On investigation the exhaust outlet in the aft lazarette had detached filling the space with engine water and exhaust fumes. We made a temporary reconnection enabling us to re-berth at the jetty. In the tradition of TVs Survivor series the “motley” team headed off into town to find a flexible exhaust hose and hose clamps. To the my surprise and only 40 minutes later, hardly giving me enough time for a light refreshment, a shower and raisin toast, they returned with the above mentioned articles in hand and quickly effected repairs.
We again set sail, this time to take the northern passage toward Chappell Island and then north up the west coast of Flinders Island. The magnificent pink granite rock formations of Mount Strezlecki drifted by on our starboard side, as we coasted along under full main and genoa in 13 knots of SE breeze. We passed Trouser Point and Prime Seal Island, leaving the Pasco Islands,(named after a distant relative of mine... Lt John Pasco) to starboard. Dreamily we made our way to Killiecrankie Bay for the night.
Sunset as we round the last reef into Killiecrankie Bay
Situated under Mount Killiecrankie this very peaceful and beautiful bay at the north-west tip of Flinders Island, is an idyllic anchorage inside a rocky outcrop and provides very good shelter in SE weather. Our anchor would not hold in the grassy sea bed, so we picked up a mooring for a quiet night. Next morning we went ashore and met Allan and Margaret who run the local store. John bought a Killiecrankie diamond for his wife (or was that his girlfriend). I bought some groceries and Richard chatted with a local geologist, busy eating the ice-cream we provided!
Killiecrankie Bay with Killiecrankie Mountain beyond
Going ashore at Killiecrankie
We weighed anchor and sailed out at 10am, heading for the Kent Group 35 miles to the north west in a steady 13-15 knot NE breeze. Two sail reaching with full sail set we were averaging in excess of 7 knots, passing Craggy Island close to Starboard.
At 3pm we arrived, sailing into the waters called Murray Pass dividing the three main islands. We entered East Cove on Deal Island anchoring Ocean Child in the turquoise waters off the jetty, only 100 metres off the pristine sandy beach. The entrance to Deal Island from the south is spectacular with sea cliffs 300 metre high. Australia’s highest lighthouse looms above and the dark and craggy sea cliffs beyond on either side of the Murray Pass open up wild bays and magnificent beaches.
Sailing to the Kent Group
We soon made our way ashore meeting two young coast-care volunteers. We walked up the winding track to the light keepers houses and visited the small but interesting maritime museum. John quipped that I should apply for the permanent position of manager there, and I replied that I doubt they would offer it to me!
The view from East Cove to Dove and Erith Islands with West Cove beach in the distance
In the afternoon sun and clear skies, we spent some time ‘shooting the breeze’ with the David the volunteer caretaker, who had been on the island for the past three months. Quite a number of volunteers assist on a rotational basis in maintaining and preserving the islands flora and fauna along with its built and cultural heritage.
The Maritime Museum at Deal Island
Weather reports told of a gale force westerly change expected within 24 hours and a local fishing boat Albatross 11 advised us to move to West Cove on Erith Island. We weighed anchor and made our way across the Murray Pass, only to find conditions in West Cove unsuitable so we returned to our previous anchorage and had a fairly comfortable night.
A sea mist made its eerie presence known the next morning covering the tops of the sea cliffs and casting its white mask over us. We breakfasted and went ashore to walk to the lighthouse. John the oldest member led the way at a cracking pace. The skipper (panting heavily), sandwiched between two very 'healthy wealthy and wise' retirees, was force marched to the top without a break in only 20 minutes!
At the summit, with a heart about to burst the lighthouse door was opened and revealed a spiral staircase! fortunately there was a chair to sit down on at the top landing. The two fit crewmembers revelled in the view whilst I lurched to the chair to regain my composure. The leisurely walk down was much easier and the swim in the cool crystal waters of the bay was just heaven. The crew were given swabbing duties as soon as they stepped back onboard!
Expecting deteriorating conditions with weather forecasts indicating NW to W then SW gales over the next few days, we moved that night to West Cove on Erith Island, anchoring in reasonably calm conditions. In the morning we awoke to increasingly squally nor-westerly winds. I press ganged the crew to assist me in the first bottling of Ocean Child Larger going ashore to replenish the ship’s water supply from a tank at a small shack located on the northern end of the beach.
Deal Island Light
On my return an Erith Island Stout was conceived. The crew again assisted reluctantly as they selfishly understood that they would not taste either the famous Larger or the Stout…such is life!
John and Jeff bottling the Larger
Four days and four nights in all were spent uncomfortably at anchor in West Cove weathering the conditions in company with a fishing boat. Wind bullets registering over 50 knots lifted the surface off the water, smashing it into Ocean Child. The strong tidal effect often placed her abeam to the swell causing her to roll heavily, making life onboard extremely uncomfortable. The CQR anchor only gave up on one occasion and the second anchoring by that master anchorman John Wedd held us securely in the worst of the conditions.
Books, magazines, food, cups of tea, cake and biscuit breaks held us together. Irene’s pre-cooked culinary delights came out one by one and became a time of day to look forward to. I tried my hand at deserts much to the delight of the crew. We were dry, warm, well fed and comfortable below while nature blew itself hoarse outside.
Being blown around like a balloon on a string is not much fun and we were glad when a 24 hour weather window opened and quickly set sail. We were off like a rabbit out of its burrow across the paddock for Victoria.
Fairly fizzing at 40knots+ in our Bay at West Cove, Erith Island.
A WSW breeze of 22 knots only 15 degrees ‘off the nose’, with a double reefed main and motor running Richard hand steered a course through the confused swells with every third wave having no back to it. Even hand steering we still slammed off the odd wave on our way to windward, until with the weather and sea state easing we altered course and started to make good way toward Wilsons Promontory.
Off to starboard we passed the barren wind sheared Hogan Group, the Curtis Group appeared in the distance to Port and Devils Tower, East and West Moncoeur and finally spectacular Rondondo Island were passed close at hand whilst we dodged ships crossing the East and West shipping lane south of Wilsons Promontory.
Out the grey blue distance the granite topography reminiscent of Deal and Flinders Islands and the Freycinet Peninsula emerged. We dodged through the Anser and Glennie Group of islands to the south west of 'The Prom’ setting a course for Cape Shanck, 75 miles away. We decided to make use of the improving weather before another expected front and southerly change to 30 knots, continuing on our way along the Victorian Coast toward Port Phillip Bay.
Smooth sailing during the night completed our run and we found ourselves at the entrance to Port Phillip at 4.30am the next morning. Shipping was followed by radar all night but nothing prepared us for the fast Tasmania/Victoria ferry Spirit of Tasmania making 30 knots and closing rapidly as we approached the entrance. The overtaking vessel must keep clear but nails were being actively chewed onboard as she altered course and passed only 200 metres astern. We called her on VHF and thanked the Captain for missing us as she quietly and efficiently disappeared ahead just as quickly as she had appeared.
Rondondo Island off Wilsons Promontory
Although it was still dark our course through the heads, (a narrow entrance with a notorious rip) was made on an incoming tide and thankfully smooth conditions. We crossed the ground at over 12 knots being sucked through over the turbulant entrance waters, then changed course to starboard inside the bay winding our way through the narrow Sorrento Channel towards our destination at the Blairgowrie Marina. We arrived safe and sound, mooring at the public jetty at 6.00am, promptly making bacon and eggs, coffee and toast before retiring to our bunks for a couple of hours well earned sleep.
Blairgowrie is a smallish suburb on the Mornington Peninsula, between Rye and Sorrento. We used our time there to complete routine maintenance on the Perkins main engine and visit Tim Phillips at The Wooden Boat Shop, one of the only boatyards still building wooden boats in the traditional way in Australia. He is currently building four 9 metre motor cruisers, with a total of 9 couta boats and similar motor cruisers on order. Of particular note was the magnificent restoration work being carried out on a famous Hobart fishing ketch Storm Bay. Phillips had purchased the vessel in Hobart in 1995 in a fairly derelick condition. She is the same design as Winston Churchill that was tragically lost in the 1998 Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race. I didn't ask Phillips but from memory Winston Churchill was designed a built by the famous Battery Point boatbuilder Perc Coverdale, and that would mean that Storm Bay probably came from the same yard.
A few days later with the help of a kindly sou-westerly breeze, we sailed for Melbourne, tying up at the brand new NewQuay Marina. Here Richard and John completed their voyaging and departed for Christmas with their families in Tasmania. I was joined by AMOB